Toe-up socks

These are the first socks I've knitted. I decided to go for toe-up instead of other options, because I thought it'd be easier, but I can't guarantee it is so, because I haven't tried another method yet.

This socks are really very, very easy to do, but they do involve learning a few special techniques. Here is the list:

• for the toe: there are many ways to start the toe. It's hard to decide which one works best. However I used and do recommend Judy Becker’s Magic Cast-On (here is another useful link). This cast-on makes a perfect look, and I mean perfect like completely invisible, you won't be able to tell. Furthermore, it is very, very easy to do, the easiest in my opinion. The only disadvantage is that you'll have to learn it. Come on, don't be lazy.

• for the cuff: you absolutely need a special bind-off. Trust me on this one. If you try to do the regular bind-off, even with larger needles, you'll never be able to put your socks on, the cuff won't go through your heel. I've looked around, and after trying a few things, I've decided that my favourite is Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. This bind-off is relatively easy to do and it looks great with ribbing.

• for the heel: I've used the boomerang heel method. This is not the same as the short-row heel method, but it is similar. I'm not sure how it compares with other options but it's really easy and it looks perfect. Below is the video I used to learn it. I didn't follow her instructions exactly, but there is nothing wrong with doing so. Thus I recommend you use what you find useful in the video and forget the rest. 

A very non-trivial matter when knitting socks is how many stitches to cast-on. A gauge swatch is necessary, as always, but you must also take in consideration that knitted fabric is very stretchy. If you cast-on the exact number of stitches that correspond to the size of your foot, you'll find out that with use the socks will become loose. This is always the case with any knitted item, but often with things like sweaters, which are really the most tricky, it is OK if they don't 'hug' the body and are a bit loose, but socks must not be loose. So you must cast-on less stitches than a simple calculation would provide. We already had this problem with the rectangle hat and I'm not sure I like the solution I suggested there. I confess I didn't follow it myself. I actually did a shorter brim in my own hat. The truth is there is not a good answer for it. It really depends on personal taste, the yarn you're using, which could be very stretchy or not so much, and also how many stitches you're casting-on, which again depends on the kind of yarn you're using and also the size of the foot. So how many less stitches? Hmmm, that is the tricky part... and I don't dare making suggestions. You must try and learn with experience. The good news is that socks are so fast to knit that if you're not happy and must start over you haven't lost that much time. The other good news is that wool is very forgiving, and if you miscalculate and your socks come out a bit too tight, you will probably still be able to use them. Too loose? use them as slippers or bed socks.

Another point. If you're having problems with the cuff not staying in place and coming down to the ankle. You probably need to make the cuff looser not tighter. If the cuff is too tight, it tends to come down the ankle where it is narrower.

So here is the 'pattern':

No, not yet. Before I start I must mention that I work with the magic loop method, and thus keep half the stitches in each needle. If you use another method, you must adapt the instructions. It shouldn't be too difficult. Now, are you ready? Or are you asleep after so much babble? You've been waiting for it. Here is the pattern: 

1. Make a gauge swatch and decide how many stitches you'll use in the cuff. That will be 100% of the stitches (this pattern uses the percentage method so you can adapt it to any gauge).
2. Using Judy’s magic cast-on, make 25% stitches on each needle, i.e. 50% in total. 
3. Knit 2 rounds.
4. increase round: k1, kfb1, knit to last two stitches, kfb1, k1,  on each needle (+4 st).
5. 2nd increase round, like step 4.
6. knit 1 round.
7. repeat steps 4 and 6 until you have 100% stitches.
8. knit straight up to where heel begins.
9. short row heel:
   1. knit all stitches except the last, turn. Now work only on second needle.
   2. purl all stitches in second needle except the last, turn.
   3. knit all stitches in second needle except last two, turn.
   4. purl all stitches except last two, turn.
   5. continue short rows in second needle, knitting or purling one stitch less every time.
   6. Stop in the short row where you purl 1/3 (see note below) of the stitches.
   7. Turn around and knit those stitches.
   8. pick one stitch (M1) and k2tog up to the end of the row (see video).
   9. knit all stitches on first needle.
   10. slip one, pick one (M1), two st back to left needle, k2tog (see video).
   11. knit the rest of the stitches on second needle.
   12. repeat the short-row section, steps 1-11.
10. knit straight several rounds up to cuff.
11. cuff: as you like it, but I do recommend 2-3cm of ribbing, 1x1 is stretchier, 2x2 also looks pretty good, 2x1 or 3x2 are nice too. So many options, so many different socks to knit.
12. bind-off using JSSBO (see video).

Note: if 1/3 of the number of stitches is not an integer, round up. Example: for 20 stitches, 20/3=6.666 stitches. Divide stitches in 3 sections:

•  6 ‘unworked’ stitches on the sides and
•  8 stitches in the centre

One last word, this pattern is not appropriate for socks that reach up to the calf muscle. For those socks, you need to shape the sock, adding increases in order too account for the size of the calf muscle, which evidently is much larger than the ankle. I don't like wearing that kind of socks so much so I'm not going to bother. You'll have to find another source if you want to learn it. I'm sure that is not hard.