Top-down beret
In this post we will put to good use what we've learn about knitting circles from our previous post. And, what's more, if you've followed my previous post on Toe-up socks and learned the techniques described there, namely Judy's magic cast-on and Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind-off, you're ready to do a top-down beret. It's really easy. Actually, it is much easier than doing socks. Note that you don't need to use neither of the aforementioned techniques. You can, for example, use any other type of cast-on and then join in the round (Judy's magic cast-on is already 'joined').
This pattern can be changed. For example, I use 1x1 ribbing for the brim, but you can do a different stitch. Needless to say that the elastic property of rib stitches makes them perfect for a beret brim, but the seed stitch, for example, looks very good in a brim, even though is not as elastic. You can also add texture by using a different stitch for the beret's body or you can use more than 1 colour and do stripes or fair-isle (though it must be a pattern that fits well with the increases). Use your imagination.
Another change you can make is changing its dimensions. The pattern below makes an average looking beret for an adult. You can either increase or decrease its measures in order to obtain a beret that is looser or tighter on your head. It really is a matter of taste.
Before you start you only need to compute the number of stitches you'll use in the brim. This should be calculated in the following way: (1) do a swatch in the stitch you'll use for the brim in order to obtain gauge, (2) measure the heads circumference, h, in cm; (3) subtract by about 4cm: a=h-4; (4) multiply by gauge measure, b, in stitches/cm: c=axb is the number of stitches. When doing the decreases as described in the pattern below, you’ll always have a number of stitches which is a multiple of 8. If c is not a multiple of eight, you have two choices: (1st option) add (or subtract) the smallest number to c that makes it a multiple of 8, for example if is c=100 add 4, 104 is a multiple of 8; (2nd option) in the last decrease round, calculate the exact number of decreases you’ll need to obtain exactly c stitches and work them evenly spaced. In the latter case, c should be even in order to work the 1x1 ribbing in the brim, unless you want to do a different brim. If you’re using bulky or super-bulky yarn and c is very different from a multiple of 8, use the 2nd option.
Pattern:
(anything between ** is repeated from the beginning to the end of the round)
Cast-on 4 stitches using Judy’s magic cast-on or use another cast-on and join in the round.
1st round: knit [4st]
2nd round: * kfb * [8st]
3rd round: * kfb2 place marker * [16st]
4th round: * kfb1 k1 * [24st]
5th and odd rounds: knit
6th and even rounds: * kfb1, knit to marker *
Stop increases when radius measures 10-12cm.
Knit straight for 5-10cm more.
Begin decreasing, alternating rounds:
‘odd’ rounds: * k2tog knit to marker *
‘even’ rounds: knit
Stop with c (number of brim stitches calculated above) stitches left.
Do 3-5cm brim: 1x1 ribbing.
Bind-off with Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind-off or another one of your choice.
This pattern can be changed. For example, I use 1x1 ribbing for the brim, but you can do a different stitch. Needless to say that the elastic property of rib stitches makes them perfect for a beret brim, but the seed stitch, for example, looks very good in a brim, even though is not as elastic. You can also add texture by using a different stitch for the beret's body or you can use more than 1 colour and do stripes or fair-isle (though it must be a pattern that fits well with the increases). Use your imagination.
Another change you can make is changing its dimensions. The pattern below makes an average looking beret for an adult. You can either increase or decrease its measures in order to obtain a beret that is looser or tighter on your head. It really is a matter of taste.
Before you start you only need to compute the number of stitches you'll use in the brim. This should be calculated in the following way: (1) do a swatch in the stitch you'll use for the brim in order to obtain gauge, (2) measure the heads circumference, h, in cm; (3) subtract by about 4cm: a=h-4; (4) multiply by gauge measure, b, in stitches/cm: c=axb is the number of stitches. When doing the decreases as described in the pattern below, you’ll always have a number of stitches which is a multiple of 8. If c is not a multiple of eight, you have two choices: (1st option) add (or subtract) the smallest number to c that makes it a multiple of 8, for example if is c=100 add 4, 104 is a multiple of 8; (2nd option) in the last decrease round, calculate the exact number of decreases you’ll need to obtain exactly c stitches and work them evenly spaced. In the latter case, c should be even in order to work the 1x1 ribbing in the brim, unless you want to do a different brim. If you’re using bulky or super-bulky yarn and c is very different from a multiple of 8, use the 2nd option.
Pattern:
(anything between ** is repeated from the beginning to the end of the round)
Cast-on 4 stitches using Judy’s magic cast-on or use another cast-on and join in the round.
1st round: knit [4st]
2nd round: * kfb * [8st]
3rd round: * kfb2 place marker * [16st]
4th round: * kfb1 k1 * [24st]
5th and odd rounds: knit
6th and even rounds: * kfb1, knit to marker *
Stop increases when radius measures 10-12cm.
Knit straight for 5-10cm more.
Begin decreasing, alternating rounds:
‘odd’ rounds: * k2tog knit to marker *
‘even’ rounds: knit
Stop with c (number of brim stitches calculated above) stitches left.
Do 3-5cm brim: 1x1 ribbing.
Bind-off with Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind-off or another one of your choice.
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