Cast-on methods, so many to choose from
With so many different methods to cast-on, you may be wondering what methods are really worth learning and using.
Each method is useful for its own purposes, so you should learn them as you need them.
There is usually more than one way to obtain the same result. For example, for the long-tail cast-on, there is the thumb, the German, the Italian, and more. You should learn one of them, and only if you find it very cumbersome, consider trying another method and see if you find it easier. There are also variations of the same method, which are not to be confused with different ways of doing the same, because they give slightly different results, like, for example, the loop, twisted loop, alternate loop, etc.
So what are the different cast-on methods used for? Here I present a list of the most useful methods, in my opinion. They are well worth learning for their specific purposes, because they are easy enough to learn and provide good results.
Other cast-on methods have more specific purposes, for example, they provide decorative edges, and I don't include them here. I also do not include many other methods that provide similar results but are more difficult to learn or execute.
Long-tail cast-on, also known as two-strand cast-on, is the most used and the most versatile, and thus the first one most people learn. It is a reasonably elastic cast-on that looks good in almost all stitches. However, if you need a firmer edge, choose cable cast-on instead (or alternate cable cast-on for 1x1 ribbing). For a reinforced edge, there is the twisted two-strand cast-on, which is stronger and more elastic than the regular one.
Loop cast-on is the easiest and fastest to work, but the resulting edge is usually too loose for most purposes. The twisted loop cast-on is only a bit firmer. They are suitable for lace.
Tubular cast-on is worth learning because it gives the best results for 1x1 ribbing.
Provisional cast-on is often used in order to obtain a seamless result when joining top and down edges, like, for example, Möbius strips or hems. It is also useful when you need to knit in two directions. There is a straightforward way of doing provisional cast-on that does not require learning anything new. Simply cast-on, knit a few rows, then unravel the cast-on. However, I do not recommend this method, because unravelling the cast-on is more work than learning one of the other methods. I personally like the crochet-chain method, but the looping method is the easiest and fastest, once you get the hang of it. All these methods involve eventually removing the cast-on, so, even though they are completely different, it doesn't matter which one you use.
Buttonhole or double twist loop cast-on for better looking buttonholes and adding stitches at the end of rows.
Judy's magic cast-on, for toe-up socks, or whenever you want to start knitting in the round from one line, instead of one point (for example, a oval shape knitted from the centre line).
Möbius cast-on for knitting Möbius cowls in the round.
Garter Strip cast-on for top-down shawls.
Each method is useful for its own purposes, so you should learn them as you need them.
There is usually more than one way to obtain the same result. For example, for the long-tail cast-on, there is the thumb, the German, the Italian, and more. You should learn one of them, and only if you find it very cumbersome, consider trying another method and see if you find it easier. There are also variations of the same method, which are not to be confused with different ways of doing the same, because they give slightly different results, like, for example, the loop, twisted loop, alternate loop, etc.
So what are the different cast-on methods used for? Here I present a list of the most useful methods, in my opinion. They are well worth learning for their specific purposes, because they are easy enough to learn and provide good results.
Other cast-on methods have more specific purposes, for example, they provide decorative edges, and I don't include them here. I also do not include many other methods that provide similar results but are more difficult to learn or execute.
Long-tail cast-on, also known as two-strand cast-on, is the most used and the most versatile, and thus the first one most people learn. It is a reasonably elastic cast-on that looks good in almost all stitches. However, if you need a firmer edge, choose cable cast-on instead (or alternate cable cast-on for 1x1 ribbing). For a reinforced edge, there is the twisted two-strand cast-on, which is stronger and more elastic than the regular one.
Loop cast-on is the easiest and fastest to work, but the resulting edge is usually too loose for most purposes. The twisted loop cast-on is only a bit firmer. They are suitable for lace.
Tubular cast-on is worth learning because it gives the best results for 1x1 ribbing.
Provisional cast-on is often used in order to obtain a seamless result when joining top and down edges, like, for example, Möbius strips or hems. It is also useful when you need to knit in two directions. There is a straightforward way of doing provisional cast-on that does not require learning anything new. Simply cast-on, knit a few rows, then unravel the cast-on. However, I do not recommend this method, because unravelling the cast-on is more work than learning one of the other methods. I personally like the crochet-chain method, but the looping method is the easiest and fastest, once you get the hang of it. All these methods involve eventually removing the cast-on, so, even though they are completely different, it doesn't matter which one you use.
Buttonhole or double twist loop cast-on for better looking buttonholes and adding stitches at the end of rows.
Judy's magic cast-on, for toe-up socks, or whenever you want to start knitting in the round from one line, instead of one point (for example, a oval shape knitted from the centre line).
Möbius cast-on for knitting Möbius cowls in the round.
Garter Strip cast-on for top-down shawls.
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