Fall Colours socks II: star toe

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The idea behind the star toe is quite simple. To shape the toe, one works a certain sequence of increases (or decreases if working from the cuff down), but, unlike the standard toe where these increases are worked on the two sides of the toe, in the star toe they are distributed evenly. This creates a rounder shape that adapts to the shape of the toe surprisingly well. Its fans argue that it provides a better fit than the standard toe. The aforementioned sequence is not fixed, but can be adapted to provide a slightly better fit, according to the shape of the wearer's toe, so you will find many different recipes if you look into tutorials and patterns where this toe is used. For example, some knitters increase 6 stitches on increase rounds, but most I found do only 4 increases (which is the same number of increases done in the standard toe). Another difference between different recipes is how often to work the increase rounds. I found the some recipes recommend starting with alternate rounds and then go on to 1 increase round for every 3 and later 4 rounds. I tried this, but found it creates a very pointy and long toe, which was not entirely to my liking, although the stretch of the fabric allowed for a good fit. Here I provide my own recipe, which is wider at the tip (more similar to the flat tip of the standard toe).

In brief:

Start by casting-on 8 stitches using the pinhole cast-on or any other central point cast-on of your preference. In the first round double the number of stitches. Then, work increase rounds (see below) until there are between 1/2 (for a more pointy toe) and 2/3 (for a rounder and shorter toe) of the total number of stitches in the needles. Finally, work alternate increase rounds until the desired number of stitches is reached.

I am using relatively thick yarn and needles, hence the low number of total stitches in my socks: 44. Here is my recipe:

Recipe (for a total of 44 stitches):

After casting-on 8 stitches.
Round 1: k1, I1, 8 times [16st]
Round 2: k4, I1, PM, 4 times [20st]
Round 3, 4, 5: knit to marker, I1, 4 times [24,28,32st]
Round 6, 8, 10: knit straight
Round 7, 9, 11: knit to marker, I1, 4 times [36,40,44st]

Notation: I1=increase one stitch (note: kfb=k1, I1), PM=place marker.

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