Converting patterns for Portuguese-style knitting: a tutorial, part 2
As promised, in this post we will convert the Embellished Microplastic Ban Pattern that we created last week in a pattern better suited for Portuguese-style knitting. We will follow the same procedure as explained in the first part of this tutorial (published two weeks ago). First, we will use a stitch dictionary. That is pretty trivial. Then, we can follow two routes. The straight-forward one: invert the order of each stitch. The clever one: deconstruct the pattern and alter the order of its parts in order to obtain an easier pattern. This last route is pretty similar to designing a new pattern like we did last week and you will see that we will follow the same steps as we did then.
Let's start by analysing a typical increase row on last week's pattern: k2, yo, k3, (yo, k2tog) x 3, garter stitch, (yo, k2tog) x 3, k2, k3. As explained then, the first and last 3 stitches, namely k2, yo and k3, form a sort of eyelet selvage. Inside those stitches there is a 3-stitch garter band and inside the garter band there is a 6-stitch lace band. But, as explained on the last post, the last k2tog is better considered to be part of the garter stitch band, because, even though it is actually part of an eyelet, it looks like a knit stitch and thus it provides extra width to the garter band. This is important in the conversion.
Let's start the conversion. k2, yo, becomes p2, yo. (yo, k2tog) x 3 becomes (p2tog, yo)x3. Note that now the p2tog is before the yo. This means that it is the first p2tog (not the last) that will contribute to the width of the garter band. Therefore we obtain: k2, yo, k2, (p2tog, yo) x 3, garter stitch, (p2tog, yo) x 3, p3, p3. Guess what, except for the position of the 1st yo, what we obtained is the same pattern as the one we would have obtained using the straight-forward route. Very often there is no other way to convert a pattern. Still, it is always worth analysing a pattern and trying to find an easier way to do it, even if it turns out there is none.
The decrease rows work pretty much the same way as the increase one. But, before we write the pattern down, let me remind you that, as explained in the first part of this tutorial, by converting knit stitches to purl ones, you are swapping the right and wrong side of your fabric. This means that the lace pattern we are using is actually explicitly written as follows (notice the first row is the right side now).
Odd rows (RS): * p2tog, yo, repeat from *
Even rows: purl.
OK, we are done with the all these lengthy explanations, here is the pattern.
Row a: p1, pfb, p1.
Row b: p2, yo, p to end.
Repeat row b until there are 12 sts on needle.
Row c: p2, yo, p2, * p2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p6.
Row d: p2, yo, p to end.
Repeat rows c and d until there are 22 sts on needles.
Row e: p2, yo, p2, (p2tog, yo)x3, p to last 12 sts, (p2tog, yo)x3, p6.
Repeat rows d and e until there are 40 sts on needles. You should end with row d.
Row g: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p to last 2 sts, LI, p2.
Row h: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p1, (p2tog, yo)x3, p to last 11 sts, (p2tog, yo)x3, p3, LI, p2.
Repeat rows g and h until there are 21 sts on the needles. You should end with row g.
Row i: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p1, * p2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p3, LI, p2.
Repeat rows g and i until there are 10 sts on the needles.
Then continue only with row g until there are 6 sts on the needles.
Row j: p1, p2tog, yo, LS, p2.
Row k: p2, p2tog, p1.
Bind off this way: p1, p2tog, pass 1st over 2nd, p1, pass 1st st over 2nd again and pull yarn through. Weave in the ends.
LI: create a yo by lifting strand between previous and next st and purl it. This LI is exactly the same as a normal yo done in the previous round except that it uses less yarn and thus creates a smaller hole.
LS: slip st, lift strand to create yo and slip slipped st back to left needle, then p2tog.
Note: as explained in the 1st part of this tutorial (see the blue rectangle), this pattern is not exactly the same as the one written on our previous post (only the straight-forward conversion does that), but it is similar enough that we are happy with the differences.
Let's start by analysing a typical increase row on last week's pattern: k2, yo, k3, (yo, k2tog) x 3, garter stitch, (yo, k2tog) x 3, k2, k3. As explained then, the first and last 3 stitches, namely k2, yo and k3, form a sort of eyelet selvage. Inside those stitches there is a 3-stitch garter band and inside the garter band there is a 6-stitch lace band. But, as explained on the last post, the last k2tog is better considered to be part of the garter stitch band, because, even though it is actually part of an eyelet, it looks like a knit stitch and thus it provides extra width to the garter band. This is important in the conversion.
Let's start the conversion. k2, yo, becomes p2, yo. (yo, k2tog) x 3 becomes (p2tog, yo)x3. Note that now the p2tog is before the yo. This means that it is the first p2tog (not the last) that will contribute to the width of the garter band. Therefore we obtain: k2, yo, k2, (p2tog, yo) x 3, garter stitch, (p2tog, yo) x 3, p3, p3. Guess what, except for the position of the 1st yo, what we obtained is the same pattern as the one we would have obtained using the straight-forward route. Very often there is no other way to convert a pattern. Still, it is always worth analysing a pattern and trying to find an easier way to do it, even if it turns out there is none.
The decrease rows work pretty much the same way as the increase one. But, before we write the pattern down, let me remind you that, as explained in the first part of this tutorial, by converting knit stitches to purl ones, you are swapping the right and wrong side of your fabric. This means that the lace pattern we are using is actually explicitly written as follows (notice the first row is the right side now).
Garter Lace Trellis (right slanted)
On an even number of stitchesOdd rows (RS): * p2tog, yo, repeat from *
Even rows: purl.
OK, we are done with the all these lengthy explanations, here is the pattern.
Embellished Microplastic Ban Pattern
Increase region
Cast on 3 st.Row a: p1, pfb, p1.
Row b: p2, yo, p to end.
Repeat row b until there are 12 sts on needle.
Row c: p2, yo, p2, * p2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p6.
Row d: p2, yo, p to end.
Repeat rows c and d until there are 22 sts on needles.
Row e: p2, yo, p2, (p2tog, yo)x3, p to last 12 sts, (p2tog, yo)x3, p6.
Repeat rows d and e until there are 40 sts on needles. You should end with row d.
Decrease region
Row f: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p1, (p2tog, yo)x3, p to last 12 sts, (p2tog, yo)x3, p6.Row g: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p to last 2 sts, LI, p2.
Row h: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p1, (p2tog, yo)x3, p to last 11 sts, (p2tog, yo)x3, p3, LI, p2.
Repeat rows g and h until there are 21 sts on the needles. You should end with row g.
Row i: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p1, * p2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p3, LI, p2.
Repeat rows g and i until there are 10 sts on the needles.
Then continue only with row g until there are 6 sts on the needles.
Row j: p1, p2tog, yo, LS, p2.
Row k: p2, p2tog, p1.
Bind off this way: p1, p2tog, pass 1st over 2nd, p1, pass 1st st over 2nd again and pull yarn through. Weave in the ends.
LI: create a yo by lifting strand between previous and next st and purl it. This LI is exactly the same as a normal yo done in the previous round except that it uses less yarn and thus creates a smaller hole.
LS: slip st, lift strand to create yo and slip slipped st back to left needle, then p2tog.
Note: as explained in the 1st part of this tutorial (see the blue rectangle), this pattern is not exactly the same as the one written on our previous post (only the straight-forward conversion does that), but it is similar enough that we are happy with the differences.
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